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Fishing pots at Guirdil Bothy. Part of Bloodstone Hill over to the right rearing above the bothy. A map of Rum and some info on the MBA and how the bothy came to be made interesting reading. http://www.mountainbothies.org.uk/ Evening on Guirdil beach, great sunset albeit a tad chilly Steve tends the seaweed fire at Guirdil Bothy. And looking pretty stern with all that responsibility too. This was to be our first full day on the Isle of Rum, with a traverse of the Cuillins and a stay at Dibidil Bothy that night. There’s a lot to like about the Isle of Rum. From the pretty surroundings of Loch Scresort at the ferry terminal to the dramatic mountain peaks of the Cuillin Ridge to the south, this is an island that’s begging to be explored. Fishing. There are six lochs on Rum (Loch Papadil, Loch Coire nan Gruund, Loch MacIvor, Loch Fiachanis, Loch a’Ghillie Reamhra, and Loch Longwhich) which are open for fishing between April and October.
Which has meant quite a few evenings of work and less head space of late. But also, for the first few days after my return, I found it hard to type for any length of time.
Many still mark Scotland’s traditional quarter days which are echoes of older religious festivals. If, like us, you enjoy living in tune with the seasons, a hip flask is ideal for summer and winter solstice celebrations or after a day’s foraging. Imagine how rewarding a juicy dram of sloe gin will taste after a long day foraging for wild berries!
And once we were down at lower levels and I could stop-with-the-fear-already, the sense of remoteness, beauty and tranquillity won through. I would happily hermitage at either of the Bothies (is that the right use of the word?) for a few weeks.In some places and at certain moments it was really tough for me. I don’t mind tough, we all build personal stories and myths about ourselves, internal narratives – and one of mine is that I’m tenacious and also probably too dim to know when to stop slogging forward. Which is why I loved schoolboy rugby in the cold and rain, I really enjoyed the ‘battle’. And I really engaged with Frodo’s travails when I read Lord of the Rings as a youth. While the entire range can be broken down into short sections, the majority of people attempt the classic Cuillin Ridge Walk (link to the Walk Highlands guide) which crosses 5 peaks over 13 miles. Visiting Tips I, with a couple of the other guys took that route. But it still required a steady foot and a good grip in some places, so getting my phone out a la tourist just didn’t happen 🙂 Hip flasks are a discreet, practical and stylish way to carry booze on the move. Think summer adventures in the hills, toasting the mountain after an arduous climb, or sharing a dram around the campfire. Hip flasks are also great to have at hand (or hip!) for weddings or other Scottish celebrations that demand boozy toasts. Traditionalists who like to “first-foot” friends and neighbours on Hogmanay wouldn’t be without a hip flask containing fine, single malt whisky, and a wee nip is used to toast the river at the beginning of fishing season. The route took us essentially south-east to north-west of the island and across a few rivers (burns). There was quite a bit of rough moorland (which I felt at home on) and some steep cliffs that the path shadowed in places.
The Ben Alder Estate came under new ownership in 2011 and its infrastructure has been greatly improved, including renovation work on the bothy, which now sports a new roof and windows. The building consists of three rooms accessed by a natty little porch. Drink responsibly, be mindful of the rules, and you shouldn’t run into bother. HOW TO CARRY A HIP FLASK It’s no secret that we love a good dram. Even better if you can enjoy a fruity, fragrant liqueur by a placid loch after paddle boarding or while watching the sunset over the hills from the comfort of your campervan. From the dam, it’s possible to head further south to the Rum Cuillin’s on a well-worn mountain trail that crosses five of Rum’s six mountain peaks. However, at around 12 hours it’s a hike that will be impossible for day-trippers. But after Trollaval I had basically lost my nerve with some of the exposed parts particularly on Askival and my legs were wiped… there’s only so much adrenalin they could take. Doh.I must have wrenched a muscle in my arm at some point along the Cuillin ridges. Really wrenched it, as it ached for a couple of weeks, enough to wake me up at night (and nothing but nothing makes me lose sleep normally).
That hike down to Dibidil was fantastic, blue skies above me, a horseshoe of peaks around me and the sea (and nearby isle of Eigg) in front. There was a river with occasional waterfalls which I followed and over to my right, keeping their wary distance, a herd of about 20 Red Deer.
Visitors will find an incredibly varied mix of habitats when they explore Rum, all of which are a haven for animals rarely seen elsewhere in Scotland. This year, Scotland received a constellation of stars at the Guild of Fine Foods’ Great Taste Awards 2021. Ok, you’ve got your hip flask and stashed your drink of choice inside it. Now it’s time to go on an adventure! 5 TIMES YOU’LL BE GLAD OF YOUR HIP FLASK THIS SUMMER 1. Not all those who wander are lost…
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